About plants Published: May 17, 2012 Reprinted: Last edits:
Azalea Video - this video will help even the most inexperienced florist to understand the care of Azalea. An experienced florist shares all the necessary facts that you need to know when growing this flower: everything about watering, lighting, air humidity, feeding, etc. When to transplant Azalea and how to propagate it for maximum results.
Today we will talk about an unusual shrub covered with beautiful flowers.
Azalea is a shrub plant, surprising in its decorativeness and duration of flowering, which fascinates not only with the mass of white, pink, red, lilac, dark purple and variegated flowers, but also with the structure of the flower. On one plant, a huge number of flowers can bloom so that the leaves under them will not be visible.
At home, azalea will delight the eye with lush flowers and fill the atmosphere with a wonderful aroma. With careful care, the azalea becomes more and more beautiful every year.
Azalea is a rather capricious indoor flower. She needs a location in a bright or slightly shaded place, since direct sunlight can cause irreparable harm to the azalea. In the summer months, it is useful to take the azalea outside, into the fresh air, and even better - to dig the azalea (along with the pot) somewhere under a tree or other shady place.
If it is not possible to take the azalea outside, then in the room conditions of the azalea it is necessary to provide high humidity, which can be achieved by regular spraying with cool water and watering. The remaining water from the pan after watering should be drained after 15-20 minutes, since stagnant water in the soil can destroy the azalea. It is recommended to take rainwater for irrigation. Also, standing tap water is suitable (lime will settle, and chlorine will evaporate), or filtered tap water.
In the autumn months, the frequency and abundance of watering should be reduced, as well as spraying. In winter, due to the dryness of the air from the central heating batteries, therefore, spraying should be carried out more often than in autumn, but it is advisable to do this on sunny days.
Top dressing should be done twice a month. Complex mineral fertilizers are used for indoor plants.
The normal temperature for flowering azaleas is from +8 to +12 degrees above zero. A good spot for an azalea is a cool windowsill with bright lighting and no drafts. The soil for growing azaleas must be acidic 0 in it, it will grow well. The soil can be made up of rotted peat and marsh moss in a 1 to 1 ratio. These are the basics of azalea care.
Indoor azalea, unlike most beautiful flowering plants, tolerates movement well during flowering. But after the azalea has faded, it must be returned to the place where the budding period took place. Azaleas need to be transplanted every year if the specimen is young, and if the bush is already quite large, then transplants are carried out every two to three years. The pot should be shallow and wide, since the root system of azaleas is superficial and the roots grow not in depth, but in width.
If you buy an azalea, it is better, of course, to take a pot with unopened buds, then it will bloom longer in your home.
After delivering the azalea home, you need to immediately water it abundantly, even not paying attention to the fact if the soil in the pot is wet. We wrote about water for irrigation above. Tap water can cause the azalea leaves to curl and fall off. When watering azaleas, you need to add any acid to the water. Best of all, a few drops of citric acid straight from the lemon.
Azalea transplant after purchase is done as follows. Prepare a slightly larger pot. The azalea is taken out of the old pot along with a lump of earth, dipped into a container of water and waited for air bubbles to stop flowing. They take out an earthen lump and put it in a new pot, on the bottom of which moss and rotted peat were laid. To increase the humidity of the air, you can put moist sphagnum moss on top of the soil.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
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Reproduction of home azaleas is carried out from spring to August, as a rule, by stem cuttings in a substrate with an acid reaction, at a temperature of 25 degrees. Cover the cuttings with a glass jar or plastic wrap and water and spray regularly. Cuttings of this plant are cut only after flowering, 10 to 15 cm long. But remember that fattening shoots are not suitable for this. It is necessary to choose young, semi-lignified shoots, it is better to take the top of the shoot of the current year.
The three lower leaves on the handle are cut off, leaving 0.5 cm of the petiole. The remaining leaves are cut in half. The lower oblique cut is made under the bud itself, preferably under a group of crowded 3-4 leaves. Cuttings should only be harvested from healthy and well-developed plants.
Before planting, the cuttings are tied in several pieces and immersed with the lower cut in a heteroauxin solution (2 tablets per 1 liter of water) for 6 hours. Can be soaked in root or zircon. After that, they are planted in bowls, boxes or greenhouses in a nutritious substrate to a depth of 2-3 cm according to a 4x4 cm scheme.
Rooting of cuttings will be faster if the soil substrate is acidic. The azalea pot is filled with substrate (special mixture for azaleas or slightly decomposed peat). Then, without moistening the earthen mixture in advance, it is "heartily" watered. The pots of cuttings should be ventilated several times a week. To do this, it is enough to remove the plastic bag from the flower pot for a short time.
If everything is done correctly, then you should expect rooting of cuttings within 1-1.5 months at a temperature of 20-25 degrees. Rooted cuttings a week before transplanting to a permanent place "accustom" to the dry air of our apartments. First, the greenhouse is opened for 2-3 hours, and after several hardening sessions they are completely removed. Already hardened and rooted cuttings are transplanted to a permanent place and again covered with foil for 1-2 weeks so that they take root better.
2-3 months after transplanting into another container, pinch the tops of young plants to form young shoots and form a bush. The first flower buds are removed. This promotes better shoot growth. In March, pinch a second time and cut off 4-6 new shoots. After that, young azaleas are transplanted into 9-11 cm pots with good drainage. The substrate is prepared from different parts of coniferous soil and peat. Plants are watered moderately with warm water. It is possible to grow young plants from cuttings in 2-3 years.
Photo: breeding a charming azalea at home will help not only increase the number of these beautiful flowers, but also get plants that are completely adapted to your conditions.
- Photo-lesson on growing azaleas (from the cuttings)
- Azalea Tips for Beginners
Caring for garden azaleas is in the right soil. An optimal substrate should consist of the following components:
- coniferous land,
- sod land,
- leafy land.
All components must be mixed in equal parts, add a little coniferous earth. The soil must be acidic and breathable.
After 3 weeks after planting the flower in open ground, the azalea needs to be fed. You can fertilize with any dressing for decorative flowering plants. The next feeding is done after 20 days.
Reproduction of campanula
The bell can be propagated in three ways: by dividing the bush, cuttings and seeds. Given that this plant does not belong to perennials, it stops blooming and growing after 2-3 years. If you do not want to lose the campanula at all, you should multiply it. It is done most often in the spring.
Propagation by cuttings
For propagation by cuttings, cuttings are taken that remain after the spring haircut. They must have a heel. To do this, the cutting is torn off at the stem itself so that the lower part retains the skin from the mother stem. Also, the stalk should have 2-3 leaves at the base. The stems should be prepared before planting.
To do this, the lower part of the cutting is dipped in a weak potassium permanganate for 7 hours. Then it is treated with rooting stimulants, which will help the shoot to form new roots faster and get a strong, beautifully flowering plant.
After that, the shoot is planted in the ground to a depth of 3-4 cm, the pot is covered with a jar or plastic wrap, which should be removed regularly to ventilate and remove condensation. The pot of seedlings is placed in a cool room and sprayed with warm water every 7 days. Three weeks later, the shelter is raised, after another 7 days, the sprout is exposed to a light window. When the shoots reach a height of 12-13 cm, the top is split to create a lush bush.
Reproduction by dividing the bush
This method is used in the process of transplanting campanula into a new pot. The procedure is carried out in spring or summer. For this, the plant is completely removed from the old pot along with the earth. The root system is cut into several pieces with a sharp knife. It should be borne in mind that each piece should be medium in size, as very small parts may not take root. "Delenki" are planted in separate pots with a drainage layer and nutritious soil. Sprinkled on top with the second part of the earth, compacted and watered. You can feed such bells a week or two after planting, reducing the amount of fertilizer by half.
Seed propagation should be carried out in early spring. For this, seeds are bought or harvested from the mother plant after the bells have faded in the fall. If you want to harvest the seeds yourself, find small seed pods and wait until they are fully ripe on the plant. A bursting box will indicate the readiness of the seeds. Then the grains are removed and placed in a paper bag. It should be borne in mind that the seeds of campanula are very small, dusty, so when removing them, try not to make sudden exhalations and movements.
After receiving the seeds, sow them on top of the soil and sprinkle with a thin layer of sand. Spray the soil with a spray bottle and cover the crops with transparent film. The film should be removed every day for an hour to ventilate the ground. Do not water crops with water into the ground. So the seeds will quickly rot before they germinate. The container is placed in a cool room with enough light, away from heating appliances and drafts. After the sprouts have 3-4 true leaves, they are dived into separate pots for growing. When the sprouts get stronger, they are transplanted into permanent flowerpots.
Diseases and pests
With improper care, various rot can develop on the leaves and stems of azaleas. They are caused by a fungus and require the use of fungicides for treatment (Fundazol, Fitosporin). It is necessary to prepare a working solution according to the instructions and spray the plant. Previously, all affected areas are cut out to healthy tissue.
Of the pests, azalea is most often affected by: spider and strawberry mites, scale insects and pseudo-scale insects, greenhouse aphids, whiteflies and mealybugs. All these parasites suck the sap from the plant.
Azalea can be attacked by molluscs, which gnaw through the leaves, making holes on them. For all these pests, industrial insecticides must be applied at the first sign of infection.
My azaleas are already well adapted, now they live and bloom in a room where the temperature does not drop below 22 degrees (not on the windowsill, but on a stand next to the windowsill). When they bloom, they will go to the kitchen window sill, where the temperature is about 18 degrees. So they spend the winter for the second year, they don't seem to complain.
I have a nightmare with them. There were never any problems with a transplant, and she could transplant in May. Didn't cut or cut anything. Over the summer - gorgeous foliage, a lot of buds, but only in September you bring it into the room - a nightmare begins. Leaves rain down, buds disappear. All winter, then with Epin, then with Zircon, if only to hold out until spring. Spring comes - and all over again - we overgrow and pick up the buds.
I was given a very beautiful azalea in June. She faded and in the heat began to slowly "give the ends". I took her to the dacha, planted her under an apple tree. I dug it up in the fall and brought it home. It is fluffy and it seems to me that it is probably going to lay the buds.
In my experience, a prerequisite for keeping azaleas in an apartment is a summer vacation in the open air, in the wind and rain.
Water the azalea (non-flowering) when the pot becomes light. If the azalea has just been bought and is in bloom, then I signal the flowers about watering: they shrink. This azalea should be watered more often.
Azalea is a very difficult flower to grow. His condition directly depends on your knowledge of the cultural characteristics and the desire to take them into account when leaving. If it doesn't work the first time, don't worry. Almost every florist suffers failures with azaleas. Try again.